Advent in Zagreb is back — from 29 November to 7 January — and somehow this city turns into a Christmas movie without even trying.
Maybe it’s the lights, maybe it’s the mulled wine, or maybe it’s just the magic of 800,000 people collectively pretending it’s not freezing.
And yes… it’s still the Christmas market that won “Best in Europe” three years in a row (2016, 2017, and 2018) — even though the whole thing only started in 2010. Fourteen years from “let’s try this” to “best on the continent.” Not bad, Zagreb. Not bad at all.
Why is Advent so magical?
Because Zagreb goes all-in.
One minute it’s a grey winter city, the next it’s a Christmas postcard your aunt would absolutely frame. Lights everywhere. Music everywhere. People everywhere. Personal space? Not everywhere.
The whole city centre transforms. Ban Jelačić Square becomes a sea of wooden stalls selling everything from handmade ornaments to fried dough you didn’t know you needed. Zrinjevac Park turns into a fairytale with its tree-lined paths wrapped in lights. And every corner smells like cinnamon, roasted chestnuts, and questionable life decisions.
The highlights
Grič Tunnel
You’ve got the Grič Tunnel — once a WWII air-raid shelter, now a glowing “Polar Dream” wonderland. The tunnel runs 350 metres under Grič hill, and every year they turn it into something different. This year? Expect immersive light installations, music, and that feeling of walking through someone’s fever dream — in the best way.
Basically Narnia with better Instagram lighting. You’ll say “wow” 47 times and bump into at least 12 people doing the same.
Upper Town (Gornji Grad)
Head up to the Upper Town for old lanterns, quiet corners, and cobblestone streets that make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The Strossmayer Promenade offers that perfect view over the Lower Town — the kind of view that makes everyone look like they’re in a Christmas movie.
Except everyone’s holding hot gin — yes, hot gin, the drink locals swear they “don’t normally drink.” Spoiler: they absolutely do, and so will you.
There’s also the classic funicular ride (shortest in the world, they’ll tell you proudly) and the Stone Gate, where locals light candles and tourists wonder what’s happening.
Fuliranje
For chaos with sparkle, hit Fuliranje at Strossmayer Square. This is where things get lively — street food from all over, DJs spinning everything from jazz to electronic, dancing in the cold, and probably someone in a Santa suit doing something questionable.
It’s the spot where you go for “one drink” and leave four hours later wondering where the time went. The food stalls here are worth the queue — think gourmet burgers, truffle dishes, and desserts that have no business being that good.
Ice Park at Tomislav Square
And of course, the Ice Park at King Tomislav Square — Zagreb’s outdoor ice rink that pops up every winter right in front of the Art Pavilion. People either skate gracefully… or heroically fall. Both are equally magical.
Even if you don’t skate, it’s worth grabbing a warm drink and watching from the sidelines. There’s something deeply satisfying about seeing overconfident teenagers eat ice.
European Square and Zrinjevac
Don’t skip European Square, where the main stage hosts live performances throughout the season — from traditional Croatian music to international acts. And Zrinjevac Park is pure magic after dark, with its canopy of lights and the music pavilion that hosts everything from classical concerts to jazz nights.
What to eat and drink
You can’t do Advent without trying:
- Kuhano vino — Croatian mulled wine, served hot and guaranteed to warm you up
- Fritule — tiny fried dough balls dusted with sugar, basically Croatian doughnut holes
- Kobasice — grilled sausages, best eaten standing up with mustard dripping everywhere
- Hot gin — don’t question it, just try it
- Rakija — for when you need something stronger (and you will)
Pro tips
- Weekdays are your secret weapon — unless you enjoy queueing with 30,000 other people. Seriously, weekend evenings are chaos.
- Dress warm — Zagreb winters are no joke. Layers, proper shoes, and something for your ears.
- Bring cash — some stalls take cards, but many don’t.
- Start in Upper Town, end in Lower Town — gravity is your friend, and you’ll be tired.
- Don’t plan too much — half the fun is wandering and stumbling onto something unexpected.
The dates
Advent in Zagreb 2025 runs from 29 November 2025 to 7 January 2026. Most locations are open daily from late afternoon until around 11pm, with some spots staying open later on weekends.
Everyone calls it magical… so I’m going to check it out myself — you know, to see if all of this is actually true. I’ll report back. Probably while holding a hot gin.